Norway 2004

Peter Dew

It had been over a year since it was first suggested we return to paddle in Norway. Our last trip in 2001 had been a great success and we hoped this one be the same.

After a few changes, five Belfast Kayak Club members, Mark Clague, Richard Creaney, Mark Mulholland, David Lyness and myself along with Shannamore Warden Andy Cardin were set to go. Maps were produced and a few areas considered with the final choice being the fjord system between Geiranger and Alesund.

We caught the ferry from Belfast and with an overnight stop in Carlisle it was on to Newcastle and the ferry to Norway. I must thank Carlisle Canoes who dropped off a new cag for Mark M at our hotel, excellent customer service, cheers.

To say it was raining when we arrived in Bergen two days after leaving Belfast would be an understatement. If Norway wanted to make six Irish men feel at home in the rain it certainly pulled out all the stops, it looked like we would have to paddle north along the roads instead of driving.

We had an overnight stop in Forde then continued north, reaching the small town of Hellesylt later that day. After a little car shuttling, we used the cover of a loading bay to pack our boats.

Food and group gear was passed around and stored away, some never to be seen again, lost forever in the darkest depths of our boats.
It was still raining but after three days of travelling the moment we were all waiting for had arrived and we set off towards Geiranger in the rain.

It was great to be on the water and certainly the weather made no difference to our spirits. As we turned eastward into Geirangerfjorden, which is reported to be the most beautiful and most visited fjord in Norway we could see, even in low cloud with the mountain tops hidden, why this fjord attracts so many visitors, the area was just stunning. A narrow fjord with a few twists and turns and several waterfalls thrown in for good measure made up for the poor weather conditions.

Food was high on our list of luxuries and with that in mind we stopped to collect mussels from the fjord wall, something we would continue to do throughout the trip.

Arriving at our campsite just outside Geiranger we quickly set up camp and took over the site kitchen to prepare the first of some great meals. In fact, if Egan Ronay had done kayaking trips his name would be stamped on this one thanks to Mark Mulholland's efforts in the kitchen, the standard was set, and pretty high too.

The following morning we paddled the short distance into Geiranger to buy supplies for lunch. As in 2001, ham, cheese and bread would become the staple diet for lunch.
We headed back along the fjord back to Hellesylt stopping to play under a fantastic waterfall that caused an amazing down draft when paddling in close.

The rain had stopped at last and the sun was doing it's best to make our first lunch stop an enjoyable one. A little sandwich factory was set up and everything was divided into six very equal parts, I could swear Mark Cleague used a ruler.

Although the weather had improved as we paddled on along the fjord, we were still unable to get the full effect of our surroundings due to the low cloud on the mountains, never the less the scenery was fantastic.

As we reached the head of the fjord Mark, Ritchie and I stopped to fish for a while and dropped some lines of the back of the boats. We watched the others make their way back to Hellesylt and without a fish being caught we soon followed them in. We stopped for a quick play where the river emptied into the fjord and for once wished I had had my playboat instead of a fully loaded seventeen foot Skerray.

Camp was set up right on the waters edge and we went to find somewhere to eat and we came up trumps. The hotel in Hellesylt proved to be a great choice and once again we set down to a fantastic meal.

The following morning we woke to bright sunshine and a stunning view along the fjord, a complete contrast to the weather we had been having since we arrived and it was a welcome sight.

We left Hellesylt and paddled along the appropriately named Sunnylvstfjorden. It was amazing to see the difference the sun made. With blue sky, the mountaintops exposed and sun reflecting of the water it was stunning. We passed the entrance to Geirangerfjorden, which looked amazing in sunshine.

After lunch Mark C decided it was time for some fishing and with his first cast of his new rod he caught a fish. Unfortunately it wasn't eatable but it spurred David, Andy and myself to try as well and soon we had five nice Pollock in the bag for tea.

Crossing over the fjord we passed a large quarry site that was in total contrast to its surroundings, impressive it may have been, but certainly a blot on the otherwise perfect landscape. Again we collected mussels for tea and as we turned eastward into Nordalsfjorden the wind increased a little pushing us along the fjord toward Eidsdal and our next campsite.

We had just unpacked the boats and got our tents up when the rain returned with a vengeance. David and Andy found shelter to clean the mussels, with that done and fish gutted we were treated to an excellent meal with seafood to start and finish and a lovely curry in the middle.

After tea we explored the village to find a little pub that was showing the European Championship final between Portugal and Greece and settled in to watch the game. A nice way to finish the day.

The following morning's breakfast was a feast, Mark M had made a quick run to the shop and returned with rolls, fruit and yoghurt. Andy Carden introduced us to his homemade soda bread, which was to become everyone's favourite memory of the trip.

Later we made the short crossing to Sylte and booked two cabins. We left Mark M and Ritchie who wanted to sleep and the rest of us went to explore the end of the fjord.
The morning had started overcast but as the day went on the weather was slowly improving and the scenery was great. The fjord narrowed as we paddled and I thought I'd try my luck fishing and dropped my hand line out to be rewarded with a hat trick of fish. We turned not far from the end of the fjord and headed back to Sylte having enjoyed and very pleasant day's paddle.

Once again another great meal with a fish starter was enjoyed, so off to explore the town. We found a few lovely old houses and a beautiful old church. We came across a great little pub with a barmaid who had just returned from living in Australia and spoke English with a strong Aussie accent. Unknown to us at the time but Mark Mulholland had met her earlier in the tourist office and was heard to say, " with an accent like that your hardly from around here". "Your right," says she, "I'm from the next village" .

The next day we had rain again and with a strong head wind we pushed along Nordalsfjorden towards Stordalen. There was a nice chop to the water and for once I set the pace and pushed on alone enjoying a spell of solo paddling into the wind. It was a case of head down and keep paddling. Although very wide, Nordalsfjorden is a great place to paddle, with great views in every direction. We also got a great view back down Sunnylvstfjorden from Nordalsfjorden's north shore.

By lunchtime it was raining pretty heavy so we pulled in at the ferry crossing at Liabygda to find some shelter and have a bite to eat. We found a bus shelter right by the ferry terminal and with the weather conditions it was as good as a 4 star hotel. Stoves out, water boiled and sandwiches eaten as quick as they were made. An eagle circled overhead but it's chances of getting any leftovers with this group were less than zero.

After lunch we pushed on along the fjord passing a couple of nice waterfalls, the mornings pace was increased to the point were it was a slog and Andy and I pulled up to enjoy the scenery. As the rest of the group disappeared into the distance we stopped to take a few photographs, relax and enjoy our surroundings.

As we arrived in Stordalen the sun was out and the little bay looked very picturesque with a row of brightly painted huts along the waterfront. We found a campsite and rented two cabins for the evening. Another great meal was made and then it was off to explore the town. Ever heard the expression, "the lights are on but there's no one home"? Well it could have been written with Stordalen in mind. We walked up the main street that was completely deserted, eventually finding one person, the local clergyman, to ask if there was a pub in the town. Good news, there was, bad news it was closed. We headed back to the campsite for an early night.

We left Stordalen the next morning in beautiful sunshine and paddled along Storfjorden.
Our plan was to cross the fjord and paddle along the fjord and then cut in towards Alesund and find somewhere to camp.

Mark and I stopped to collect mussels and were successful with our hand lines trailing behind the boat, so lots of seafood for tea. The weather had turned a little colder so we found a great little bay and pulled in to put our cags on. We continued west along the fjord and pulled into a larger bay where we had lunch. Mark M went to explore and return with two cakes from the local shop, needless to say both were scoffed there and then. Unfortunately, this was my sunglass and I parted company.

Andy found a better route that would be a little quicker, instead of travelling further west and then crossing the fjord in towards Alesund, closer inspection revealed we could cross the fjord where we were and paddle a short distance along a river into Ellingsoyfjorden. This would also give us more shelter if the weather continued to deteriorate. The plan was to keep a tight group as there was an increased chop to the water, however it settled towards the middle of the fjord and just as well because David decided he couldn't wait to get to the other side before having a pee.

The river between the two fjords seemed to be a favourite local fishing spot and as we were passing there were certainly salmon to be caught but the best we could manage was the smallest of Pollock which was sent back in embarrassment.

Food and somewhere to camp was on the agenda and I didn't care as to which order.

We continued to paddle west along the fjord searching for a likely spot, but this was Norway and wild camping spots in this area are few and far between. It was getting late now and the thought of food was only suppressed by the beauty of the surrounding countryside. This smaller fjord was very different to the larger fjords we had been paddling. Its sides were low and there was trees and greenery all around.

It looked like we would have to paddle all the way into Alesund and into the early hours when Mark C spotted a clearing in the trees. It was worth a look and luck was with us again, we had found a great spot to camp complete with empty cabin 500 metres up the hill.

We pitched camp and took full advantage of the patio complete with table and chairs. We lit a fire to dry off and then relaxed after another great meal. Perfection was only spoiled by our first encounter with the local midge.

After a great breakfast of fresh fish and soda bread we set off towards Alesund. The sun was out and the scenery stunning.

What looked to be an oil refinery aside, first impressions of Alesund were excellent. It would be our turning point and we where going to spend a couple of days to have a look round.
The first stop, even before finding a campsite, was the museum, which included lots of old ships and buildings, some of which would have modern building control pulling their hair out.

We paddled on to find a great campsite, showered, made dinner and headed out to see what Alesund had to offer.

Next day we paddled through Alesund, along a canal by the harbour and found a festival in progress. During my search for new sunglass, the old ones I'm sure by now had found a new home on the front of someone else's face, I was accosted by a man informing me that he "was local" "hmmm" says I with great suspicion, to which he went on to explain he was from the local newspaper and asked what we were doing in Alesund. When I explained we had come from N. Ireland he got very excited and called to his cameraman. I could see the disappointment in his face when I explained that the ferry had brought us to Norway and not arrived under our own steam. Never the less we got our photograph taken, give a short interview and found ourselves in the next day's edition.

Leaving Alesund behind for the moment we headed out towards several islands. Getting out on the open sea was marvellous. The sun was out and the scenery was spectacular. We landed on a small island for lunch. With Mark M, Ritchie and Davy sleeping Andy, Mark C and I went for a short walk to the top of the hill that gave impressive views in every direction. The wind was increasing and the decision was made to head back but not before Mark and Davy had a play on a rope swing.

Tearing the children away from their new toy, we set out for Alesund. The return journey was made interesting by a nice sea chop, a game of chicken with a tanker and me getting towed behind two local lads who weren't impressed with my efforts to ski, eventually giving up I resorted to holding on to the side of their boat.

Later that evening we went out for a meal to a restaurant recommended by our taxi driver. The food was superb, eat your heart out Egon.

We took the next morning off to do some washing, relax and pick up six local papers. So it was mid afternoon when we headed away from civilisation and back into the fjords. The good weather was continuing and spirits were high. We navigated through a few inlets where we saw a small charter boat coming in the opposite direction. Someone was on the back holding the Sunnmorspoten (local paper) and shouting to us in English that we were famous.

We broke out of the inlet to a breath taking view of Hjorundjorden and our route home. This was the most scenic part of the trip, the sun was out, the sky was blue, and the water was clear, we had beautiful panoramic views of snow capped mountains, it was going to be a beautiful crossing.

Asking permission from the owner, we set up camp at the end of the fjord after on what can only be described as the best campsite in Norway.

We spent the evening cooking, eating and fishing. I drank the health of every fish I caught and I'm glad to say I went to bed very happy.

Next morning we had the last of Andy's soda bread and fish for breakfast. The weather had once again changed and a strong wind was now blowing down the fjord. The fantastic scenery we had the day before had disappeared into the clouds the blue water was now grey and the temperature had dropped but this was our last day on the water so nothing was going to spoil it.

With the wind in our backs we made great progress to towards Leknes and lunch. Even with low cloud, this fjord had a lot to offer the paddler. Steep walls on either side raising from the water into the clouds, on the west side these were broke up occasionally with deep valleys at the base of which small towns had set up.

On the map Leknes looked like a small town and even indicated a campsite, which we had considered, but all we found was a small ferry terminal, which of course we used to warm up and have lunch.

A great improvement in the weather after lunch would allow us to finish in sunshine. We paddled on the last short leg of the trip in great spirits. Each of us would have our own thoughts and memories of a great trip. We finished late afternoon in Oye and after a shuttle to get the car we returned to our starting point in Hellesylt to spend the night before travelling south. We broke the return journey up with a day's white water rafting in Voss.

We arrived in Bergen found a campsite and spent the following day sight seeing, a great way to relax and finish the trip.

Peter Dew